Skin Care 101-How to layer your products

There are so many products out there!

It's overwhelming and hard to know exactly WHAT you need.
Even once you figure out what you need...are you using it correctly? If not, you may not be getting the most bang for your dinero.

This Blog will address what each product does and how to properly layer your skincare products for maximum efficacy.

Your regime should look something like this: (and I promise, once you get the hang of it, it will only take you 5-7 minutes)

AM:

1-Cleanse (Exfoliate)
2-Tone
3-Antioxidant/Anti Aging Serum
4-*AM Specialized Treatment
5-Moisturize
6-Eye Cream
7-SPF

PM:

1-Cleanse
2-Tone
3-Anti Aging Serum
4-*PM Specialized Treatment
5-Moisturize
6-Eye Cream

Let's talk about each of these individually.

CLEANSE

The dirt on the skin is made up of dust, pollution, sweat, oil and cosmetic residue.
These things stick to and are suspended within the thin oily protective layer of the skin (the acid mantle) on the surface.

It is important to cleanse at night (no matter how dog tired you are after a long day) to help remove the buildup of this debris that you accumulate throughout the day.

However, if, very occasionally, you've had one too many margaritas and forget to wash your face before you "fall asleep"- I will let that slide every so often. Hey, who hasn't been there?

You have to cleanse in the morning too!

There are many credible studies by organizations with lots of capital letter (NIH etc) that show our brains and bodies purge toxins while we sleep. If you don't cleanse in the AM then you can reabsorb these toxins which can lead to breakouts and, overall, less healthy looking and glowing skin.

If you use a scrub or exfoliating cleanser- use it in the AM to give your skin a healthy glow and help pores look smaller.

I recommend using a pump cleanser- not a bar soap. If you have dry or mature skin then use a creamier cleanser. If you have oily or acne prone skin then use a foaming or gel cleanser. If you have combo skin, there's nothing wrong with Cetaphil, Aveeno or Neutrogena.

TONE

Toners usually contain alcohol and water plus additional ingredients that modify them for specific skin types. The purpose of toners are to restore the skin's pH balance, help constrict pores and leave the skin looking taut.

I have a love/dislike relationship with toners. I think if you are a toner gal, GO FOR IT! I have no problem with them at all. I use a toner occasionally I feel like I need a refresher or have already cleansed a couple times in a day.

However, my skin care regimen needs to be as few steps as possible (Don't let my 4 tiered spice rack of products by my bathroom sink fool you.) Some mornings, I just don't have the timmmeeeee.

It's really up to you on this one. Just stay away from those harsh astringents (yeh, remember that crisp, burning sensation from that SeaBreeze  we used in 7th grade. That'll clear out the nostrils!)

ANTIOXIDANT/ANTI AGING

THIS IS WHERE TO SPEND YOUR MONEY WHEN TALKING ABOUT SKINCARE.
Everyone should be using a good antioxidant in the morning. This helps repair cellular damage that has occurred in the skin and helps neutralize free radicals we are exposed to throughout the day.

If you are under 30 then you can check out SkinCeuticals Phlorertin CF. This is a GREAT stand alone antioxidant. Although, my personal favorite is Vitamin C+E Complex by SkinMedica. I find it much easier to dispense and use than the Phloretin.

If you are over 30, you need an antioxidant AND an anti aging Serum. Check out SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum. My all time fave. I've never seen anything work like this product.

*AM SPECIALIZED TREATMENT

This would be products that fall into the category of addressing certain conditions. For instance, skin brighteners like Skin Medica's Lytera (love, love it) or any prescribed cream or acne treatment etc.

MOISTURIZER

Yes, you need one. Even if you think you are 'oily' or acne prone.

The water content of the skin (epidermis and dermis) is 80%. In the very top layer  of the epidermis, the one that the world sees, we only have a water content of only 10 to 30%.

You need a moisturizer to help retain water and keep it from evaporating on the surface of the skin. This will leave your skin looking smoother and more supple.

If you are oily or acneic, then you are likely using an acne treatment and those are notoriously drying. Use an oil free moisturizer. There are lots of oil free options available over the counter. SkinMedica makes a nice one called Ultra Sheer Moisturizer.

Dry or mature skin will need something that is a little heavier. Again, there are plenty to choose from OTC. SkinMedica makes a great one called Dermal Repair and SkinCeuticals has one called A.G.E. Interrupter. It's a little heavier but has a really nice elegant feel to it. Perfect for women over 50.

EYE CREAM

Eye creams specifically address that delicate tissue around the eyes. Different creams address different concerns. For dark circles, I LOVE AuriDerm Vitamin K cream. It's not really moisturizing but is the best topical I have found for dark circles.

The nation wide best selling eye cream is TNS Eye Repair by SkinMedica. It contains the same growth factors as the TNS Serum to help restore collagen and elasticity. It also has high concentrations of vitamins C and E and hyaluronic acids that improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

SPF

You need a daily SPF between 30-45. EVERY. SINGLE. DAY. Even if you don't think you will be getting sun exposure. Even a little daily sun exposure accumulates over time and can have damaging effects.
My favorite is the Elta MD line. It's affordably priced, has more physical protection than OTC sunblocks and it looks completely transparent on the skin.

These same things all apply to you night time regime...with the following exceptions.

PM Step #3. If you are under 30 and only using an antioxidant...You can use it once or twice per day. If you are only using it once- do it in the AM. If you are using it twice per day then it falls under Step #3.
If you are using the TNS Essential Serum then this already contains all your antioxidants and you should def be using your anti aging serum twice per day where I have indicated above.

PM Step #4. This is where you would apply your Lytera, your Retinols etc. If you have more than one product that falls in this category, a good rule of thumb is to apply them from thinnest to thickest viscosity. For instance, Lytera feels thinner than Retin A when you rub it between your fingers, so apply in that order for maximum absorbency. Make sense?

There ya go!

HOW OLD YOU ARE IS YOUR BUSINESS, HOW OLD YOU LOOK IS OURS.

Andie: So what do you want to drink?
Duckie: Oh, you know, beer, scotch, juice box....whatever.

Oh, that Duckie!

Love,
Michelle, Nancy and Laurie
THE SKIN GURUS




 

The skinny on the Cursed CELLULITE!!

I am writing this Blog because I can't get through a week without a minimum of 20 questions about cellulite and how to get rid of it. Especially with summer fast approaching!

If I had a cure for cellulite and stretch marks then I would be insanely wealthy and retire comfortably at the ripe old age of fortysomethingsomething *cough*cough*.

Until then, let me tell you a little bit about this condition and why I'm not vacationing with Richard Branson on our own side-by-side personal islands right now.

Everywhere you look there are creams, injections, supplements, office treatments, commercials, SPAM and brochures promising to 'cure' cellulite.
As the saying goes...
"There's a sucker born every minute!"
Well, you won't be that sucker! Not on my watch, sista! (and/or bruthas!)

Allow me to bore you with a little Physiology 101.

In order to understand why some treatments will or won't work we need to understand what we are dealing with.

Cellulite is an alteration in the skin that presents as a sort of  "orange peel" or 'dimpling' on the surface of the skin that can vary in degrees of severity. Cellulite doesn't discriminate. You can be Jillian Michaels and still have it!

Cellulite typically appears on the thighs, buttocks and sometimes lower abdomen and upper arms of otherwise healthy women.

Yes, I said WOMEN!
About 85% of women have cellulite vs only about 10% of men. Guys have thicker skin which makes it harder for fat to push its way to the surface. THEY HAVE IT SOOOO EASY! Buncha jerks!

Lets talk about the different kinds of fat. There is one kind of fat that you can pinch an inch or two on your tummy or love handles. That is the fat that is typically treated with Liposuction or alternative noninvasive methods like CoolSculpting.  That's not what we are talking about here on this Blog.

Cellulite....picture this...
Just beneath the surface of the skin, in the Dermis, we have a little network of fibrous bands (these are called Septae. Think of them like a honeycomb) that connect our skin to it's underlying tissue. When fat cells become trapped between these bands and start to protrude and bulge upwards ... Viola! Cellulite!

Because these fat cells are trapped in the skin instead of underneath it, liposuction rarely fixes the appearance of cellulite. And in some cases, lipo can make the appearance of cellulite even worse. It's true. Google it ;)

This 'honeycomb' is the genetic makeup of the skin for most every living female on the planet. I can't change the way your skin is made up. Therefore, almost any results you see from treatments or OTC creams/supplements for cellulite is temporary.

Now, I'm going to be brutally, horrifyingly honest.
I HAVE CELLULITE! *SHRIEK!*CLUTCH YOUR PEARLS*

Over the last decade (and then some...) I have tried tons of things.

I tried Mesotherapy (which involved hundreds of microinjections using a solution primarily containing phosphatidycholine. (Talk about painful swelling and bruising! And I saw NO results!)

I have tried VelaSmooth/VelaShape (Painful, expensive, time consuming and only provided temporary results).

I have tried an invasive yet-un-named clinical trial using a cannula and radio frequency. (Results=nada. Unless you count the crazy swelling. That made my cellulite look a little better. Or maybe I was just too distracted by the purple/blackish bruising I HAD FOR WEEKS..Needless to say that little procedure hasn't quite hit the market quite yet)

I have tried body wraps (great if you do it right before an event or beach vacay. But results don't last).

There is also endermologie. I haven't done this but I can't imagine it's really worth it. Not many places even offer it anymore.

Here's the deal. VelaShape, Endermologie etc. etc. all use a massage technique to release those trapped fat cells. You will see a temporary improvement but because *we cannot change the biological make up of your skin...Once you stop treatments you will see the cellulite come back. How quickly it returns has lots of variables. Genetics, lifestyle yada yada yada.

So, is it worth it you to spend a few grand and a few hours per week for short term results? Well, that's something that you have to decide.

I promise you this, though. When and if something comes down the pike that actually works, I will be the first to have it. And I will shout it from the mountaintops like Maria from the Sound of Music!

So, in the meantime, here's a cool little trick of the trade. It will save you a few grand and give you some nice results in a pinch.

Using the same philosophy that massage helps improve the appearance of cellulite..get yourself one of those handheld massagers, the plastic or wooden ones that look like molecules.

You can use this a few different ways. Whatever you find the easiest way to be consistent. BUT, if you are shooting for a specific date or event-start about 3-4 weeks before you need to look your best.

A) You can use it in the shower. For instance, when you are all lathered up and conditioning your hair, use the massager on each upper thigh, booty, arms, wherever and massage away for about 5 minutes on each area.

B) You can use this with a nice body firming cream. I use it at night while I'm laying in bed (not sexy but I know if it's on my nightstand, I will do it) for about 5-10 minutes on each leg.
A body cream containing caffeine works great as it is a diuretic and helps flush those fat cells. I will warn you, one or two patients used a caffeine body cream at night and had trouble sleeping (anything applied topically bypasses the GI tract and absorbs directly into the bloodstream. If you are sensitive to caffeine then either use it in the AM or just find a nice firming cream without this ingredient.)

Also - Eat healthy! Drink Your Water! Work Out! Take care of yourself! It matters!
Then use all that money I just saved you on something SPECTACULAR for yourself! (I know you've been eyeballing that pair of shoes!)

That's all I got!

HOW OLD YOU ARE IS YOUR BUSINESS, HOW OLD YOU LOOK IS OURS.

Peace, Love and Sweet Dreams of Benedict Cumberbatch
(Those cheekbones, those lips, those mischievous eyes and that impish grin.. *swoon*)

Sorry, he carries me away...

Michelle, Nancy and Laurie
THE SKIN GURUS