Thursday, February 6, 2014

THE TRUTH ABOUT SPF (It's not as boring as it sounds!)

We all know the importance of sunblock in the prevention of skin cancer, wrinkles and photo aging. But have you noticed lately that store aisles are lined with SPF 70, 80 even 100 plus? But is SPF 100 really that much better than SPF 45?

Logically, it would make sense that an SPF 30 would offer twice the protection of an SPF 15 but that is simply not the case.
 
SPF (Sun Protection Factor) refers to the ability of a sunscreen to block UVB (UltraViolet Burning rays), which cause sunburns, but not UVA rays (UltraViolet Aging rays), which are more closely linked to deeper skin damage. Remember, both UVA and UVB contribute to the risk of skin cancer. UVB rays are shortwave rays while UVA rays are long-wave. These wavelengths are shorter than visible light and therefore, invisible to the naked eye.
 
UV radiation damages the skin’s cellular DNA leading to genetic mutations in the skin. In layman’s terms, it’s the brown spots, wrinkles, loss of collagen and elasticity and skin cancers.
 
Now, before you say anything, I KNOW tan cellulite looks better than white cellulite. (And BOY don’t I know it!) But we MUST change our thinking about suntans. When you have a tan it is actually your body’s reaction to trauma. So, you see, a tan doesn’t mean you are healthy. It actually means your body is reacting to UV radiation and taking drastic, immediate measures to defend itself.
Fake Bake all you want if you feel the need for some color!
 
I just want us all on the same page and to understand why this is SO important for you AS WELL as your children and loved ones. Also, it doesn't make sense to spend money on treatment and products to undo the existing damage if you are still GETTING DAMAGE! *Pardon me, now, while I ease off my soapbox and try not to fall in the process*  
 
SPF is a measurement of the time it would take an individual to burn in the sun if they were not wearing sunblock vs. the time it would take with sunblock on. For instance, a product with SPF15 means that a person whose unprotected skin would burn in ten minutes can apply the product and stay in the sun 15 times longer, or 150 minutes, before they get sunburned.
 
No sunblock offers 100% UV protection. But, an SPF 45 product will block about 98% of the sun’s rays. Therefore, increasing your SPF number above that, even to SPF 100, will offer less than 1% more protection from UVB rays. You’re just dumping more chemicals on your skin. Why do that if it's unnecessary?
 
So, on a beach vacation-you can’t just slather on SPF 100 in the morning, spend 8 hours outdoors and expect to NOT get crispy! (BTW-if you ARE going on a beach vacation..TAKE ME! PLEASE! I make a mean cocktail! Ok, I’m lying. I can’t make cocktails BUT I can pop a the top off your cervezas with FLAIR! So take me anyway!)
 
I would rather you focus on the frequency of application instead of the SPF number on the label.
 
There are lots of formulations out there about how frequently you should apply sun protection. I.e. the level SPF, the time of day, your geographical location, proximity of the earth to the sun etc., etc. Now, I don't know about you but I am NOT doing those calculations while on vacation or having fun.
 
My rule of thumb-
Apply SPF 30-45 every morning. Every day! Cumulative UV radiation just by driving to work, running errands or sitting by a window has equally damaging effects over time.
If you will be outdoors for any extended period, reapply every hour /or every margarita.
Use common sense. If you burn quicker, reapply more frequently.
 
There are also powder sunblocks for those of us that don’t get in the water and just want to look cute by the pool.
 
Now that we understand what SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is, and that it only refers to UVB (the BURNING rays)… How can I protect my skin from UVA (the AGING rays)?

UVA rays reach deeper into the skin and are the culprit for photo aging i.e. wrinkles, brown spots and loss of elasticity. And, in fact, 95% of all UV rays we absorb is UVA-(Aging) radiation.
 
There are some full spectrum (UVA and UVB) sunblocks that are largely concentrated with chemically based 'active ingredients'. (oxybenzone, avobenzone etc.) However, some of these ingredients can cause irritated skin and burning eyes. Most chemical sunblocks offer marginal protection because they break down quickly in the sun and become less effective. 
 
The most effective and proven defense against UVA and UVB rays is a medical grade physical sunblock containing micronized zinc oxide or titanium oxide. These sunblocks go on sheer and can be used on all skin types. Remember, anything you apply topically can create some sort of reaction. However, I have very rarely heard of this from physical blocks.
 
Our ALL TIME FAVORITE sunblock is the ELTA MD line. It is an affordable line offered through physicians’ offices and offers more physical protection than anything over the counter. They make a tinted, moisturizing, sport and oil free sunblock as well as one made for reactive skin types like melasma, acne and rosacea. I actually use that one as part of my treatment plans for those skin conditions and I use it myself to help control my rosacea. Amazing stuff!!!
 
One last thing to tell you about. HELIOCARE.
 
This OTC supplement derived from central and South American ferns is getting rave reviews in the skin care and dermatological circles. It is not FDA approved so I will only tell you what I know. Seems this is a highly potent antioxidant that helps aid in stopping/preventing sun damage.
 
I read the clinical reviews by highly regarded sources and felt confident enough to give this a try on myself and my kids on our Mexico vacation last year. I can’t find any known side effects in 20 years of research. Some studies indicate that the photoprotective properties when taken orally can reduce the risk of sunburn by as much as 200%.
 
I bought this at Walgreens in the anti-aging supplements. It was around $50 for 60 capsules. I'm a skeptic when it comes to these things. However, my youngest teenage daughter is red headed, blue eyed, translucent skin like me and we both burn inside of 15 minutes in the sun. On vacation, I made everyone take one capsule with breakfast and one with lunch. (Of, course, this is not a stand-alone sun protection...we used sunblock every hour as well). I was astonished that even after boats and 5 hours playing in the ocean every day. Neither of us had a single blister. THAT has never happened. In Texas, one hour at the pool WITH sunblock and no HelioCare and we look like lobsters. So, I am impressed with this product and I will continue to use it. 

I hope you find this interesting and we gave you some helpful hints.
After all,

HOW OLD YOU ARE IS YOUR BUSINESS.
HOW OLD YOU LOOK IS OURS!

Loves, Loves, Loves ya!
 
Michelle and Nancy
THE SKIN GURUS

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