THE SKIN GURUS: February 2014

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

BB? CC? What are all these Double Letter creams?

Unless you have been living life under a large rock, you have seen how these Double Letter creams have inundated the cosmetic market.

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Every store you walk into, whether it's a high end department store or your local MegaMart, have shelves lined with BB Creams, CC Creams and (soon to come) DD Creams. So, you stand there dumbfounded with the 1,000 yard stare and ask yourself "What the heck are these creams? Is right for me? If so, which one?!".

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Well, you have come to the right place, my friend.

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They all make remarkable claims about how they will make your skin defy aging but do they? Really? REALLLLLYYYYYY?

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Let me break this alphabet cream business down for you.

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In a nutshell, these creams are a hybrid of tinted moisturizers, old school foundations and *supposed* skin perfecting ingredients.

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So what is the difference between all these creams?

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BB creams

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"BB" stands for "Beauty Balm". These are an Asian import that hit the US a couple of years ago.

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BB Creams are meant to provide coverage (lighter than foundation but more coverage than a tinted moisturizer) while providing additional benefits like SPF and anti-oxidants etc. Each brand offers a slightly different list of ingredients. These anti-oxidants and "anti aging" additives will not be as effective as your physician dispensed serum. But a little anti-oxidant is better than none.

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Also, you will still need to use a good SPF (see my SPF blog) because most of these will not provide adequate UV protection. My opinion is-don't rely on BB cream to give you the same efficacy as a stand alone, pharmaceutical grade SPF or anti-aging serum.

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CC creams

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"CC" stands for "Color Correction". There is not much difference between a BB and a CC cream. Generally, CC creams will also have a few extras like light diffusing particles to help with the appearance or redness or dull skin.

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Even though they are marketed differently and have some varying ingredients, honestly, I don't see a huge difference between the two. The exception being how much coverage you want or need. Some creams will be very sheer while others provide more moderate coverage. There is no real "standard" formulation for these creams or their ingredients. Basically, you will have to kiss a lot of BB/CC frogs to find one you like.

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DD creams

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Here we go with ANOTHER alphabetical cream......I wonder if they make it to 'ZZ' before the next big cosmetic craze hits the preverbal skin-perfecting fan. I feel like maybe companies are hopping on the bandwagon while the iron is hot. How many other clichés can I pepper in here? Oh well, if you can't take the heat, stay out of my kitchen! (and PS- an apple a day keeps ANYONE away..if you throw it hard enough. I digress) DD cream will soon be hitting the market touted as the "Dynamic Do-all". It sounds to me like more of a BB/CC combo. We shall see.

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Will these creams take the place of traditional foundation?

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I doubt it. Plus, I still prefer and recommend using a mineral foundation. Make up artists reviews say that BB/CC creams are kind of like using an all-in-one shampoo/conditioner/body wash. It probably won't give you an exact color match or quite the finish that you are looking for. Maybe use a BB/CC cream as a primer could be an option? Most dept stores will give you samples so try a few out and see if it's right for you.

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My final thoughts.

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SPF and anti-aging is always a great thing vs. using none at all. But I wouldn't believe all the hype and marketing. The FDA regulates the amount of effective ingredients available over the counter so don't think these products will give you the results you would see with clinical lines of skin care.

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I just today bought Kate Somerville's 'IllumiKate CC cream" because I read some good reviews. I will give it a try and update this blog in a week or two with my verdict.

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There ya go, folks!

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HOW OLD YOU ARE IS YOUR BUSINESS, HOW OLD YOU LOOK IS OURS!

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Shhhhh. Pretend I folded this up and passed it to you under the desk in study hall,

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Michelle and Nancy

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THE SKIN GURUS

Monday, February 24, 2014

LASERS! Everyone is talking about them!

Everyone is talking about LASERS!

It has now become more common than the monthly pampering facial. Why, you ask? Because we are all fighting this uphill battle that is called aging. AND WE WANT RESULTS!

You probably know someone who has done a little lasering. If it was done right, you can't quite tell.

Does this sound familiar? You meet up with the gal you haven't seen in a while and even though y'all are the same age...she looks darn good. Better than the last time you saw her. So you say "OMG so-and-so! Great to see you. WOW! you look amazing! what is your secret?" And Ms. so-and-so just smiles coyly and replies "Oh, me? I haven't done anything. Just eating well, taking vitamins and getting my beauty sleep."

I'll say it. LIAR! She did something! Probably a bunch of little things. I know that is true because I HAVE IT DONE and perform these treatments daily! NO ONE is immune to gravity and aging. I am just the one who talks about it. It takes a village to raise these jowls!

Now, I don't have a flux capacitor to rewind time to where our skin was in 1985 (Who would want that anyway? The bad home perms and the high wasted, acid washed jeans?)YIPES!!

What I DO have... are LASERS. And years of distance from this horrifying, bone chilling pic.!

It seems to be a catch all remedy right now. But what is it and which one is right for you?

Here's a basic guide to LASERS and what they do.

There are many different types of lasers which all do something different for your skin.

HOW THEY WORK

LASER is an acronym that stands for

L ight

A mplification by

S timulated

E mission of

R adiation

All lasers are light based therapies that penetrate to varying depths in the skin based on target we wish to treat. Each Laser has a different wavelength that is unique to what you want to correct be it pigmentation, texture (wrinkles, redness, scarring etc.)

If you are considering lasers you need to find a licensed professional who understands your concerns and how to treat them effectively.

With any laser treatment- there is some discomfort involved. Most times you will have a topical numbing cream applied prior to treatment. But even with topical...expect to feel some heat and discomfort. "If it ain't hurtin', it ain't helpin'."

LEVEL 1- LIGHTER LASERS

non-ablative Diode fractional lasers (i.e. Clear + Brilliant)

These are the least invasive types of fractional lasers for pigment and texture. There is usually minimal amount of downtime (24 hours of redness) with this type of laser. It will take a series of treatments to see smoother, fresher skin. This treatment can usually be done in one hour including numbing time. After you complete a series of usually 4 treatments (done 1x/month for optimal results) then maintenance treatments are usually quarterly to maintain results.

You can expect to see smoother and healthier looking skin with a beautiful glow.

Hair Removal Lasers

Alexandrite or Nd:YAG laser These are used to reduce the amount of hair growth in the treated area. I wrote a blog about this. Refer to that for specifics. Some redness and sunburn type feeling immediately post treatment. You will require a series of 5-6 treatments done 1x/5-6 weeks for best results. Maintenance treatments will like be needed periodically.

LEVEL 2- MEDUM STRENGTH LASERS

non-ablative fractional lasers (i.e. Fraxel Re:Store Dual)

This type of laser is best for moderately sun damaged skin, acne scars, and moderate textural issues like fine to moderate lines and wrinkles. It works by drilling little holes (thermal zones) in to the skin. It will take a series of 3-4 treatments done 1x/month initially with maintenance as needed. You can expect to look bronzed and puffy for about 3 days. Days 4 and 5 you will see mild flaking and exfoliation.

Expect to see a lightening of sun damage and a smoother texture after your series.

LEVEL 3- ABLATIVE Lasers(The BIG DOGS)

Fractional CO2, Erbium

Ablative lasers use the same technology as the non-ablative versions. However, goes much further into the skin. These lasers are used for those with deeper dynamic wrinkles and pigmentation. Ablative lasers are often used in conjunction with facelift surgeries as most require general anesthesia. These lasers also help remodel collagen and provide more long term results.

But there is always a catch....Though these lasers go deeper and provide better and longer-lasting results..they also have more downtime. You can expect to be red, swollen and oozy for a good 7-10 days (hello, this is an open wound) with some residual redness that can last 8-12 weeks or so post procedure.

Your end result should be tighter, brighter, smoother skin. The collagen remodeling doesn't happen overnight so expect to see improvements for up to 6 months. I typically do not see this procedure done more than once every few years due to the downtime and the fact that I can often maintain the surgical results with lesser aggressive lasers and procedures.

Not everyone is a good candidate for lasers. A lot depends on your skin type, the issues you want address, melasma, medications and UV exposure. You need to discuss these things with a licensed professional to see whether or not LASERS are right for you.

However, if you are a candidate, there's nothing like the right laser to help reverse the hands of time.

Let us know what else you want to hear about!

AFTER ALL, HOW OLD YOU ARE IS YOUR BUSINESS, HOW OLD YOU LOOK IS OURS!

Love and Light(Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation!)

Michelle, Nancy and Laurie

THE SKIN GURUS

You're breaking out... WHERE???

THOSE DARN BREAKOUTS! Maybe when I turn 18...or 25...or 40 these breakouts will END! Well, there is no magic birthday that makes us immune to breakouts.

You can do everything right but, low and behold, you WILL...at some point...breakout again.

Even those of us who know all the ins and outs of skincare and have all the latest cutting edge technology and products at our fingertips will be a victim to the dreaded pimple from time to time. Usually, that occurs right before I have something major going on. It's like my skin goes "OH! you have a speaking engagement? Pictures to take? Someone to impress? Well, this whitehead/horn in the middle of your forehead will go smashingly with that outfit you were planning to wear!"

If you haven't already-please go read my Acne 411 blog. Lots of great info in there.

This Blog is to explain breakouts and Facial Mapping.

So where are you breaking out?

ZONE 1 & 3

FOREHEAD

Forehead breakouts are usually connected to digestion. If your forehead is going nuts try increasing your H2O intake and eating 'clean'. Sometimes, this may be associated with food allergies like wheat or gluten. Of course, if breakouts all of the sudden start on your forehead...ask yourself...have you changed hair products lately? That's often a culprit, as well.

ZONE 2

CENTRAL FOREHEAD

The middle of your forehead, smack dab between your brows is linked to the liver. If this is your main area of breakouts then it may be related to drinking alcohol (however, some nights I think to myself "Pimple be damned! I need a dirty martini with 3 BIG olives! and don't try to give me those small bottom-of-the-jar olives. I want the BIG ONES!" We've all been there, right?)as well as rich foods or lactose intolerance. Try to cut back on the late night wine and cheese platter.

ZONES 4 & 10

EARS

The ears are connected to the kidneys. If they start to swell, break out or feel hot then think about your caffeine intake. If these symptoms happens right after drinking a 6 pack of Jolt cola then we may have found the problem. And also-WHY are you drinking a 6 pack of JOLT? Pump the breaks, there, hoss!

ZONES 5 & 9

CHEEKS

Your cheeks have been linked to your respiratory system. If you smoke or are super allergy prone you may notice pore congestion and overall redness and visible vessels. Think about quitting the cigs or try an antihistamine to clear redness and breakouts in this area.

ZONES 6 & 8

EYES

Like the ears, the eyes are also linked to the kidneys. You can try to diminish the dark circles and breakouts by drinking more water, getting your beauty sleep and focusing on your diet and digestion. I also recommend a Vit K eye cream for dark circles. I will talk more about that in a later blog.

ZONE 7

THE NOSE

Your nose can indicate blood pressure. If it becomes red and abnormally inflamed...you may have high blood pressure. Get it checked and if it is high, talk to your doctor.

ZONE 12

THE CHIN

Acne at the chin (and sometime the jawline) are most commonly triggered by hormonal fluctuations. Women usually see this area flip out right before or after menses. This whole being a chick thing just gets better and better, eh?

ZONES 11 & 13

PERIORAL

Around the mouth and, specifically, the corners of the mouth are linked to the ovaries. Once again-you may see cyclical break outs occur here. *SIGH* I guess we women have to pay some sort of price for our superior intelligence and ability to multitask! We love you men and of course we need you! I have light bulbs and flat tires that need changed and spiders that need killed! I keed, I keed. kinda.

ZONE 14 THE NECK

These breakouts are often linked to adrenal stress. We have 2 adrenal glands located above our kidneys. If these glands get out of whack you may feel lethargic and unusually stressed out. It could also lead to a breakout on your neck. Remember when you cleanse and apply all your fantastic products on your face to go ahead and extend the application down your neck. Even if your face looks phenomenal but your neck is broken out, sallow and droopy...people will notice. Don't neglect it! Necks need LOVE, too!

As always, these are general guidelines. If you suspect something else is going on with your body see your physician. If you need help navigating this minefield we call acne, see your licensed skincare professional.

We hope you found this interesting.

After all,

HOW OLD YOU ARE IS YOUR BUSINESS, HOW OLD YOU LOOK IS OURS!

Knowledge is Beautiful and SO ARE YOU,

Michelle, Nancy and Laurie

THE SKIN GURUS

Monday, February 17, 2014

BRUISING! auugghhh

Whether you have just had a procedure, injections or….by some series of unfortunate events like…oh….say bending down to stuff your belongings in a locker without realizing someone stealthily came up and opened THEIR locker which happens to be the one above yours. Then standing up and crashing your forehead into their locker door. (That’s NEVER happened to me. OK. It’s happened once. Okkkkkaayyyyy. Twice. Lesson learned!)

Bruising is the unfortunate risk we take as injection and cosmetic patients! (Or, those who are garden variety accident proned.)

One of the number one questions and concerns patients asks is: Will I bruise?

We sure hope not!!! Rest assured, as providers, we try with all our effort NOT to bruise a patient! Like you, we too absolutely do not dig walking around purple and blue..trying to think up a good story about how we got it that bruise!

True story-

I had some filler injected in my cheeks about a year ago. I had ‘slightly’ over massaged meaning I was supposed to massage to 20 minutes not 3 hours….(hey, just because you know better doesn’t mean you can’t go overboard!) I gave myself a pretty good shiner.

Just so happens, it was thunderstorm season in Texas. My central alarm system had been on the fritz since Friday’s thunderstorm (the day I gave myself the black eye) and was acting all quirky. I had our security system guy out to fix it Saturday.

Well, Sunday afternoon-after my shiner was nice and ripe, another T-storm hit. I had just gotten out of the shower when the doorbell rang. NO makeup, T-shirt, wet hair. I wasn’t answering the door looking like that! My daughter comes into my bedroom and says “Mom, there are, like, 3 police cars and an ambulance outside!”

So, I answer the door (forgetting what I look like, of course! I thought there was an emergency!) The cop says “Ma’am, we got a silent distress call from your alarm.” I go, “OH MY GOSH! The electrical storms must have set my central alarm off again! I just had the company out to fix it yesterday!”

He gives me a very slow ‘once over’ and then quietly said “Ma’am. Nod your head if you need us to come inside….we will. DO YOU NEED HELP?” as he unsnaps the button from his gun holster. Then it hit me! OMG! The shiner!!! I started talking and the more excuses I gave the more farfetched I sounded! I was like “OH! This! I DID IT TO MYSELF! IT WAS MY FAULT! I WAS RUBBING A VIBRATOR ON MY FACE *wait-that won’t make sense to him* I PROBABLY FELL DOWN THE STAIRS OR HIT MY HEAD ON A LOCKER! IT WASN’T MY HUSBAND! HE LOVES ME, HE REALLY LOVES ME!”

Yikes. Thankfully, we got all that worked out. It WAS the electrical storm BTW. Point being, we can help you avoid or minimize bruising and save you from THAT whole explaining to cops fiasco. *Shout out to Denton PD. Had I actually been in trouble, ya’ll would have handled it amazingly!* How we wish there was some magical pill we could give our patients prior to an injection to prevent this or there was some technique that was 100% “bruise-proof”!

In any procedure or anything where a needle is involved then a chance of bruising is reality. We hope to shed some light on what bruises are and then offer various tips collected over the years on how to decrease the chances of getting one as well as how to make them go away faster!

A bruise, also called a contusion or a hematoma, is nothing more than bleeding that occurs under your skin or in the soft tissue beneath it. The bleeding occurs because of trauma which have caused a blood vessel to break. The blood has nowhere to go and gets trapped under the skin.

There are three types of bruises: Subcutaneous bruises that occur beneath the skin, intermuscular bruises that occur inside the muscle, and periosteal bruises that occur on the surface of the bone.

Think of a bruise as just a blood stain left in the tissues due to a blood vessel leaking. The closer the broken blood vessels are to the surface, the sooner the bruise appears, and the more intense its colors will be.

As a bruise heals, it changes color until it disappears. Bruises ‘typically’ follow a progression of colors as they heal: from a reddish blush, to a gradually darkening blue or purple, followed by green, and finally a yellow-brown color and can take from 7 days to heal up to several months for large ones. They will last longer the older we get.

Treatment of Injection Type Bruises: The first step is to apply a little pressure followed by a cold pack, but not for more than 15 minutes at a time. The cold will numb the discomfort and slow down the bleeding.

After two days, you can begin to apply heat. This speeds recovery by increasing circulation in the affected area.

Begin taking Arnica Orally if a bruise occurs. You can buy this at any health food or nutritional store under the name Arnica Montana. You can also purchase topical Arnica in a gel or cream if you want to double up on the recovery time.

When it comes to any of the following tips please keep in mind these are just suggestions. If anything is contraindicated by your doctor or causes irritation or just doesn't work for your schedule, then by all means DON'T DO IT! Use your best judgment and let's hope you never get a bruise or, if happens, it goes away quickly!

1. If Possible, prior to your procedure, begin taking the pineapple bark supplement Bromelain approximately 2000 mcgs per day up to two weeks prior to injections. This will help a bruise to go away faster if one occurs. It also decreases inflammation in the body.

2. If Possible Avoid Alcohol, Aspirin and Ibuprofen (example Motrin) at least three days prior to procedure/injection day.

3. If possible, avoid taking any supplement or pills known to increase bleeding times up to two weeks prior to injections. (Google search on your own for the big ones as there are many). Of course if you cannot due to health reasons or forget, do not give this much concern as we will do the best we can to avoid a bruise altogether.

4. If a bruise develops, immediately apply a cold pack to the bruise in 15 minute increments for the first 24 hour to 48 hours. The cold will help prevent the spread of the bleeding and the stain that the blood is causing to the tissues. Cold packs can also be applied if swelling and tenderness occur.

5. If a bruise develops, begin taking Arnica supplements sublingually (under the tongue) twice a day for the next 5 to 7 days.

6. Apply Arnica Cream with Vitamin K immediately and up to three times a day over bruise and until bruise disappears. Make sure to wipe the area clean and apply over the site before any other creams or serums.

7. After 24 hours you can begin to take Aspirin or Ibuprofen to help keep the blood on the thin side and thus help the body move out the bruise stain.

8. After approximately 24 to 48 hours you can begin to apply warm packs. The thought behind this is to try and increase circulation to help decrease the dark color by moving out the blood left in the tissues. Examples: warm tea bags; make a hard boiled egg and gently roll over the area until the egg cools; warm wash cloth.

9. Another tip shared in a beauty magazine is to apply a topical cream or ointment that warms the skin such as Mentholatum, or Vick's Vapor Rub. Apply a medium layer up to three times a day and gently massage over bruise. If it is an area you can cover with a band aid or soft gauze this will help seal it in and work even better. Be careful applying near the eye as may cause irritation to the eye due to the fumes from the menthol. Again, use your best judgment and avoid if bothers you.

10. Another successful tip shared from a dentist is to apply toothpaste such as Crest Whitening over a bruise overnight instead of Metholatum or Vick's Vapor Rub.

Reminder: IF YOU PURCHASED ARNICA CREAM W/VIT K, apply this BEFORE the Mentholatum or Vicks or Toothpaste for additional absorption and healing of the stain.

• I cannot repeat this enough to please use your best judgment and avoid any tip or suggestion contraindicated by your doctor or that which conflicts with your medical health history, causes and allergy or skin irritation. These are simply tips offered with the sole intent to help you get through those unfortunate times where a bruise occurs due to an injection. Whenever I hear of a new one I will be sure to update for you!

Hope we gave you some great tips!

After all,

HOW OLD YOU ARE IS YOUR BUSINESS, HOW OLD YOU LOOK IS OURS!

Hasta Luego Ned,

Michelle, Nancy and Laurie

THE SKIN GURUS

Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Everything LASER HAIR REMOVAL

Laser Hair Removal is all the rage right now. And for good reason! It’s AWESOME!

Imagine it….NO more stubble, NO more ingrowns, NO more shaving, NO more waxing and

NO MORE WORRY!!

SO, is it right for you?

I need to talk about some basics to help you decide.

First, a little biology (I promise not to get too lengthy).

Hairs grow in three stages.

In the Anagen stage, the hair follicle is growing and fed by a blood supply attached to the root.

In the Catagen stage, the blood supply has detached.

In the Telogen phase, the follicle is shedding.

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The principle of LHR is that the laser is attracted to the pigment in the hair follicle, the energy from the laser pulse finds that target (the pigment in the hair) and travels down the shaft to destroy the blood supply attached to that follicle. Hence, no blood supply=no hair growth.

Hair growth cycles are not uniform. All of your hair follicles are at a staggered growth rate at any given point in time. Typically, only about 15-20% of hair is actively in the Anagen stage (has the blood supply attached).

It is impossible to tell what hair is in what stage of growth just by looking at it. So, I treat the entire area each and every time I see a patient.

Women typically have 5-6 growth cycles per region. A new cycle comes up about every 4-6 weeks. You must come in around week 5-6 and treat each new growth cycle as it comes up.

That means the entire treatment time will take you 6-7 months to complete. If you don’t comply with this schedule then you will end up doing more treatments than you actually needed to do.

The gold standard for laser hair removal for lighter skin types is the Alex 755. I also treat darker skin types using the YAG laser. However, darker skin types may require more treatments and may have less efficacy.

The straight scoop on LHR.

About 90% of people will see about a 90% permanent reduction after completing treatment. We all have dormant hairs that are not currently in active growth. So there may be maintenance treatments needed periodically.

My BEST responding patient would have pale skin and dark coarse hair. The bigger the contrast between the hair and the skin, the more likely you are to have great results. I can treat lighter hair and darker skin but that may alter your overall results.

Blonde, Red, Gray and white hairs WILL NOT RESPOND! Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. You must have brown pigment in your hair for this to work.

You cannot have a tan during your course of treatments. The laser will not be able to tell the difference between the pigment in your hair and the pigment in your skin (potential blisters and scarring!) This means-no suntan, no tanning beds (let’s just NEVER do that anyways) and no fake tan. Any Laser Tech worth the initials after her name will turn you away and decline treatment if you show up with too much color.

You also cannot have UV exposure immediately following your treatments or you risk ending up with nice little 12-15 millimeter brown spots all over the treatment area. So…unless you are into the leopard look…yikes..talk to your skin care professional and be honest about your sun exposure. We are in this together and want you to have AWESOME results!!

If you have any underlying health or hormonal issues, this may also affect your outcome or contraindicate the treatment altogether.

I offer topical numbing cream in office. Even with that, expect to feel some sensation during treatment. The best thing I can liken it to would be a small, hot rubber band pop. It’s tolerable. And it’s worth it in the end. But if you aren’t feeling that pop, you likely aren’t getting an effective treatment.

So…during treatment, just keep repeating this mantra to yourself “That means its working! THAT means its working! THAT..AGGHHHH….MEANS IT IS WORKING!!” You’ll do great! It’ll be over quick and you will be so happy not shaving that you won’t even care about the temporary discomfort. I swear.

Over the years, I have treated my chin, underarms, bikini and legs. I can tell you without reservation-it’s one of the best things I have ever done for myself. I hear the same thing from patients on a daily basis.

Check it out. Find a reputable office and walk in to your consultation armed with this information so you know the right questions to ask.

That’s Laser Hair Removal in a nutshell. We hope this answers your questions!

Please feel free to email us with questions or suggestions for upcoming BLOGS!

After all,

HOW OLD YOU ARE IS YOUR BUSINESS, HOW OLD YOU LOOK IS OURS!

You are beautiful and WE LOVE YOU,

The Skin Gurus

Thursday, February 6, 2014

What THE HECK are PEPTIDES? and why is everyone talking about them?

Have you heard the commercials and beauty buzz about Peptides in skin care and wondered to yourself, “What are peptides and why are they important?”.

In the simplest terminology, there are only 20 different amino acids in the human body. They are the building blocks of life.

When protein is broken down, amino acids are left. Your body uses these amino acids to make more proteins which grow and repair body tissue..

Different peptides and proteins in the body are comprised of different combinations and sequences of amino acids. When a chain of amino acids is over 50 acids long, it is usually called a protein, when it contains less than 50 amino acids in the chain it is a peptide. So, a peptide is a portion, (why we call them building blocks) of a protein.

All peptides influence or direct the cells of the body in some way. Different types of peptides influence different types of cells.

The most effective peptides in skin care work to mimic the appearance of broken down collagen, causing your skin to naturally react by producing more collagen. In a nutshell, when you apply a topical peptide-as it penetrates- each skin cell sends a message the one underneath it (and so on and so on)that your body has had a breakdown in collagen. Thereby triggering your body into 'healing mode' to produce more collagen!.

It's GENIUS, right?! This mechanism of tricking the skin to do what we want is very effective and the cornerstone of the most cutting edge procedures and technologies.

Peptide complexes also work to effectively increase lymphatic drainage and microcirculation by strengthening veins and capillaries, leading to a dramatic reduction in discoloration & swelling around the eyes.

By protecting the integrity of elastin & collagen bundles (two essential elements of the skin), and minimizing the impact of free radical damage, powerful peptides work to improve skin firmness and elasticity.

The Dermal-Epidermal Juncture (DEJ), responsible for the structural and functional integrity of the skin, begins to lose functionality around the age of 30. Therefore, peptides are a crucial part of your anti-aging regime which should also include a growth factor and anti-oxidants.

Now that we have that boring science stuff out of the way **YAWN** … All you need to know is USE IT!.

But how do you pick the right product with all these pushy sales people and larger than life commercial claims?

It’s overwhelming. If I were the average skin care consumer I would be at a total loss!!! Even now, I run through the skin care dept of high end mall stores with the skill of an NFL wide receiver… dodging, ducking and weaving, baby!

However, on the rare occasion a sales girl corners me with her gravitational tractor beam… I let her give me her pitch then bust out some fancy terminology and scientific data contradicting what she just said. Then, as her eyeballs spin for a minute, I can make a mad dash for the door. Salespeople can be very persuasive. They should be! They have a quota and a commission check to make!

Which is why we started this website!! We are tired of seeing patients dump hundreds of hard earned dollars into worthless skincare having no clue what these products were suppose to do or why and how to use them.

So, let me help you out..

I AM ABOUT TO LET YOU IN ON A HUGE SECRET!

Here is the honest truth and this is what I tell my patients on a daily basis.

The FDA regulates the amount of active ingredients that can be sold over the counter. So, whether you are paying $18 at Wal-type-Store or $180 at a high end department store…No OTC product can contain any more effective ingredients than is allowed by the FDA.

You are smart enough to pick up what I’m laying down here.

I have no problem with some OTC products. I regularly write up skin care regimes with Cetaphil and Aveeno cleansers and moisturizers. They are just as good as long as you use the right product for your skin type.

However, there are some integral components in your skin care regime that cannot be substituted with OTC.

When it comes to anti-aging products like peptides-get the most bang for your buck. Invest in a pharmaceutical grade peptide (pharmaceutical meaning CANNOT be sold OTC. Usually sold exclusively through your physician.

.These have more efficacy and are molecularly small enough to ACTUALLY penetrate the skin and reach the targeted area to reverse damage and repair cellular DNA.

My absolute favorite Peptide serum is Essential Serum by SkinMedica.

Essential Serum contains Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Silk peptides, and 7 Antioxidant--including EGT-a “Super-Antioxidant”.

Essential Serum also includes the best human growth factor serum on the market --TNS Recovery Complex as well as Vitamin C, Vitamin E and many other essential ingredients needed for more youthful skin.

It is also THE MOST effective product I have seen to help rebuild and stimulate the collagen matrix in the skin. SkinMedica is owned by Allergan (makers of Botox) and there is serious science behind this product.

This product retails for about $260 and one bottle, used 1 pump AM and PM, will last about 45 days. Keep in mind-when we are talking about collagen stimulation and cellular DNA repair-it takes about 90 days to see the changes. There is no way to speed that up.

Just like working out at the gym. It’s easy to get frustrated if you don't see results in a few days but just remember..

.NOTHING happens overnight. There is great stuff going on underneath the surface!

Be consistent and commit yourself to at least 90 days. It’s worth it!

As always,

HOW OLD YOU ARE IS YOUR BUSINESS,

HOW OLD YOU LOOK IS OURS!

Stay Golden, Pony Boy!

Michelle, Nancy and Laurie

THE SKIN GURUS

THE TRUTH ABOUT SPF (It's not as boring as it sounds!)

We all know the importance of sunblock in the prevention of skin cancer, wrinkles and photo aging. But have you noticed lately that store aisles are lined with SPF 70, 80 even 100 plus? But is SPF 100 really that much better than SPF 45?

Logically, it would make sense that an SPF 30 would offer twice the protection of an SPF 15 but that is simply not the case.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) refers to the ability of a sunscreen to block UVB (UltraViolet Burning rays), which cause sunburns, but not UVA rays (UltraViolet Aging rays), which are more closely linked to deeper skin damage. Remember, both UVA and UVB contribute to the risk of skin cancer. UVB rays are shortwave rays while UVA rays are long-wave. These wavelengths are shorter than visible light and therefore, invisible to the naked eye.

UV radiation damages the skin’s cellular DNA leading to genetic mutations in the skin. In layman’s terms, it’s the brown spots, wrinkles, loss of collagen and elasticity and skin cancers.

Now, before you say anything, I KNOW tan cellulite looks better than white cellulite. (And BOY don’t I know it!) But we MUST change our thinking about suntans. When you have a tan it is actually your body’s reaction to trauma. So, you see, a tan doesn’t mean you are healthy. It actually means your body is reacting to UV radiation and taking drastic, immediate measures to defend itself.
Fake Bake all you want if you feel the need for some color!

I just want us all on the same page and to understand why this is SO important for you AS WELL as your children and loved ones. Also, it doesn't make sense to spend money on treatment and products to undo the existing damage if you are still GETTING DAMAGE! *Pardon me, now, while I ease off my soapbox and try not to fall in the process*

SPF is a measurement of the time it would take an individual to burn in the sun if they were not wearing sunblock vs. the time it would take with sunblock on. For instance, a product with SPF15 means that a person whose unprotected skin would burn in ten minutes can apply the product and stay in the sun 15 times longer, or 150 minutes, before they get sunburned.

No sunblock offers 100% UV protection. But, an SPF 45 product will block about 98% of the sun’s rays. Therefore, increasing your SPF number above that, even to SPF 100, will offer less than 1% more protection from UVB rays. You’re just dumping more chemicals on your skin. Why do that if it's unnecessary?

So, on a beach vacation-you can’t just slather on SPF 100 in the morning, spend 8 hours outdoors and expect to NOT get crispy! (BTW-if you ARE going on a beach vacation..TAKE ME! PLEASE! I make a mean cocktail! Ok, I’m lying. I can’t make cocktails BUT I can pop a the top off your cervezas with FLAIR! So take me anyway!)

I would rather you focus on the frequency of application instead of the SPF number on the label.

There are lots of formulations out there about how frequently you should apply sun protection. I.e. the level SPF, the time of day, your geographical location, proximity of the earth to the sun etc., etc. Now, I don't know about you but I am NOT doing those calculations while on vacation or having fun.

My rule of thumb-
Apply SPF 30-45 every morning. Every day! Cumulative UV radiation just by driving to work, running errands or sitting by a window has equally damaging effects over time.
If you will be outdoors for any extended period, reapply every hour /or every margarita.
Use common sense. If you burn quicker, reapply more frequently.

There are also powder sunblocks for those of us that don’t get in the water and just want to look cute by the pool.

Now that we understand what SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is, and that it only refers to UVB (the BURNING rays)… How can I protect my skin from UVA (the AGING rays)?

UVA rays reach deeper into the skin and are the culprit for photo aging i.e. wrinkles, brown spots and loss of elasticity. And, in fact, 95% of all UV rays we absorb is UVA-(Aging) radiation.

There are some full spectrum (UVA and UVB) sunblocks that are largely concentrated with chemically based 'active ingredients'. (oxybenzone, avobenzone etc.) However, some of these ingredients can cause irritated skin and burning eyes. Most chemical sunblocks offer marginal protection because they break down quickly in the sun and become less effective.

The most effective and proven defense against UVA and UVB rays is a medical grade physical sunblock containing micronized zinc oxide or titanium oxide. These sunblocks go on sheer and can be used on all skin types. Remember, anything you apply topically can create some sort of reaction. However, I have very rarely heard of this from physical blocks.

Our ALL TIME FAVORITE sunblock is the ELTA MD line. It is an affordable line offered through physicians’ offices and offers more physical protection than anything over the counter. They make a tinted, moisturizing, sport and oil free sunblock as well as one made for reactive skin types like melasma, acne and rosacea. I actually use that one as part of my treatment plans for those skin conditions and I use it myself to help control my rosacea. Amazing stuff!!!

One last thing to tell you about. HELIOCARE.

This OTC supplement derived from central and South American ferns is getting rave reviews in the skin care and dermatological circles. It is not FDA approved so I will only tell you what I know. Seems this is a highly potent antioxidant that helps aid in stopping/preventing sun damage.

I read the clinical reviews by highly regarded sources and felt confident enough to give this a try on myself and my kids on our Mexico vacation last year. I can’t find any known side effects in 20 years of research. Some studies indicate that the photoprotective properties when taken orally can reduce the risk of sunburn by as much as 200%.

I bought this at Walgreens in the anti-aging supplements. It was around $50 for 60 capsules. I'm a skeptic when it comes to these things. However, my youngest teenage daughter is red headed, blue eyed, translucent skin like me and we both burn inside of 15 minutes in the sun. On vacation, I made everyone take one capsule with breakfast and one with lunch. (Of, course, this is not a stand-alone sun protection...we used sunblock every hour as well). I was astonished that even after boats and 5 hours playing in the ocean every day. Neither of us had a single blister. THAT has never happened. In Texas, one hour at the pool WITH sunblock and no HelioCare and we look like lobsters. So, I am impressed with this product and I will continue to use it.

I hope you find this interesting and we gave you some helpful hints.
After all,

HOW OLD YOU ARE IS YOUR BUSINESS.
HOW OLD YOU LOOK IS OURS!

Loves, Loves, Loves ya!

Michelle and Nancy
THE SKIN GURUS